When a scruffy young artist sets out post 9/11 to make a portrait of the Middle East, he has no idea what he will find or how he will live. Henry Hemming’s extraordinary journey takes him from the drug-fuelled ski-slopes of Iran via some of the region’s secret beaches, army barracks, nightclubs, torture chambers and brothels to a Fourth of July party with GIs in one of Saddam Hussein’s former palaces.