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This paper highlights how the transformation of the role of shōsha as mediators between European and Japanese companies contributed to the development of Japan’s fashion industry after World War II. shōsha have played a unique role as “commission merchants” in Japan’s fashion industry by operating as mediators between manufacturers or between manufacturers and retailers when information asymmetries exist. They either replace or supplement parts of the client’s value chain, helping to improve flexibility, particularly within the textile sector. This historical study of the shōsha examines the changes in the industry in different periods and highlights the introduction of the licensing model of French couture designs, business transformation from the 1990s onwards and the significant importance of branding in recent years.