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At the crossroads between the state, the market and civil society, the personal and the public spheres, the national and the local, gastronomy is one of the central features of contemporary French cultural identity. This article argues that gastronomy can be analysed both as a form of banal nationalism within the country and a manifestation of cultural nationalism abroad. Inside France, gastronomy "flags" the nation in the daily lives of ordinary people. But in the global world, it also feeds a form of cultural nationalism based on the alleged virtues of French savoir-vivre vis-à-vis other nations. The article also reflects on the intermittent, ailing role of the French state in the definition and promotion of a national cuisine.